Camino, day 2
Rates, 6th October 2023
Buen Camino,
A new level of paranoia unlocked. I’m scared I’ll fall off a bunk bed. I wanted to sleep on the bottom bunk, but the warden forbade it. He said grandpas would arrive later. Two did — a German and an Italian. Currently, they’re both snoring.
We’ve got ten beds in the room. The grandpas occupy the bottom two. Four other solo pilgrim girls and I stay in the top bunks. We’re staring into our phones and I’m just waiting to see who's going to start shushing the snores first.
I’m trying to touch the ceiling with my foot. I guess I could do it if I could stretch my legs. Today, they carried me through 23.4 kilometres and had enough.
The morning walk along the ocean was beautiful. But I knew the crowds of locals would show up before lunch and then I’d be greeting someone every other minute with hola!
So, I decided to cross over to the central route. I left my accommodation in Vila Chã around 8 a.m. After 11, under the bridge in Vila do Conde, I said a tearful goodbye to a burden that was both physical and mental, though it was neither in my backpack nor in my head. But I’ll tell you more about that some other time.
The important thing is that from that moment on, I continued alone, with my own thoughts, feelings, blisters (well, I don’t actually have any yet, how about that!).
The central route is better for me. I met only a few people. They all smiled politely but just let me go. I walked along a road, over a bridge, past a tiny waterfall. I smelled cowpats and had a chocolate croissant. I felt more hidden, I felt better.
At the albergue in Rates, I met an English guy who was six years older than me and an Australian girl who was six years younger. We had ciders and shared life stories. But we may never meet again.
And now I need to get some sleep. Today was kinda emotionally draining. I guess I’m a bit homesick too. At one point, I even wondered why on earth I was doing this. But then I told myself: I am doing this because I can. Because I have healthy legs that can carry me that far.
So, once I send this letter to you, I’ll put cream on them and thank them. Hopefully tomorrow, they’ll let me walk a bit further, so I can focus on the other, much more important reasons why I am walking this pilgrimage. There are plenty of them. I just have to recall them all.
Thank you for reading!
Kat